Dänemark

After countless encounters with train conductors and bus drivers bitching about our bicycles, we would now like to visit a country that embraces cycling: Denmark!

Itinerary

Fr. 3.8.:  Arrival in Hamburg um 18:00.  Overnight in Hamburg at Mövenpick Hotel in Schanzenpark.

So. 5.8.:  Train to Flensburg with Schleswig-Holstein Ticket.  Lunch in Flensburg at Hafenküche: regional, seasonal, delicious.  To drink: Hausbier Hafenküchebier and, natürlich, Pils from Flensburger Brauerei.  Cycle to Fynshav, 60km, Danish National Cycle Route #8/Ostseeradweg.  Last ferry to Søby at 19:30.  Sleeping at Camping Søby - peaceful oasis and getting used to our camping gear.

Aerø:  So. 5.8. - Di. 7.8.

  • Rise Brewery at Vandværksvej 5 in Store Rise - LUNCH, fantastic.  Great to see most bars and restaurants in the area/archipelago carrying Rise brews.
  • After cycling around the island and through Marstal, we landed in Æerøskøping for the night.  After an evening swim in the amazingly clean harbor, we had an excellent dining and beering experience at Café Aroma.
  • Second night sleeping on Aerø (Mo. 6.8.) near Vesperstrand in Aerøskøping at Ærøskøping Camping.
  • Fähre von Søby nach Faaborg on Tuesday at 10:15.

Fyn:

  • Vineyards on the island of Fyn:  after arriving with the ferry, we rode out to Kimesbjerggaard Vingaard and drank a fabulous, dry rosé in their garden.  This was the only vineyard we visited on the Fyn archipelago so definitely plan to return!
  • Breweries on the island of Fyn:  although he had already closed, the father at Kunstbryggeriet Far & Søn saw the disappointment and exhaustion (super hot cycling day) in my face and was so kind as to pour us a few of his delicious brews.  Ended up having a nice conversation about beer with him and his ladyfriend in the courtyard.
  • Prolonged visit at Far & Søn in Svendborg meant we were too late to try the beer at Ø-Bryg on the island of Thurø, but, as I wrote, we'll be back :)  Camped on Thurø (Di. 7.8.) on the beach at Møllegaardens Camping.
  • Cycle to Nyborg

Zealand:

  • Train from Nyborg Station to Ringsted.  A friendly guy at the Fri BikeShop Ringsted sponsored a spare tube for us.
  • Cycle from Ringsted to Skovly Camping (Mi. 8.8.) where we took a dip in the pool and had the kitchen to ourselves for pasta dinner with Janis Joplin.
  • Cycling mostly with GPS navigation from campsite to Copenhagen.  Brunch in Roskilde at Café Satchmo - run by a guy from San Francisco with lots of organic menu items and Herslev Bryghus vom Fass, organic craft brewery NW of town.

Do. 9.8.:  Copenhagen.  3 nights in the Danish capital.  Next time we'll stay at the new Copenhagen Island Hotel.  The entire neighborhood is new and there's a public swimming area in the harbor next to the hotel.  Water quality very good in harbor and we jumped in around the corner from the public swimming spot where the locals hang out.

Fr. 10.8.:  Roger Waters concert in Copenhagen - awesome.  Way more breweries than expected and we hit up most of them over the course of our stay.  Favorite beer and seemingly most prevalent around town is Nørrebro Bryghus.  Favorite bar is Søernes Ølbar and was recommended to us by a waiter at the Bryghus.  It had quite a few other craft brews from around town.  We liked the Hancock Pilsner.

Sa. 11.8.:  Hung out a couple times at the Wecycle.  Just up the road by the Langebro bridge is Café Langebro, which had a good lager beer from the nearby Amager Bryghus.  Checked out Christiania and were totally disappointed:  no where to drink a local glass of beer - just plastic and Tuborg.  The open marijuana sales actually do a disservice to the legalization of marijuana and hemp as it's primarily high guys lazing around.  The scene perpetuates the stereotype of weed as a motivation-killer and thus blocks potential considerations for hemp in other areas such as agriculture and medicine.

So. 12.8.:

  • Returned our single bikes to Baisikeli and were reunited with Marooni.  One of the guys there told us about the Meatpacking District just behind the bike shop, which is on its way to Manhattan trendiness.  The Italian restaurant Mother has a great all-you-can-eat brunch buffet - perfect foundation for an afternoon of cycling (it's missing, however, a bottomless mimosa special).
  • Cycle Path 9 south from Copenhagen to Gedser, ~200km.  Also sort of following the Berlin-Kopenhagen Radweg, but every other touring cyclist we saw was cycling North. 
  • Rainy, miserable weather in the afternoon so overnight in Køge at Køge Bed & Breakfast (ohne Breakfast) in a cute little garden house.

Mo. 13.8.:

  • Weather cleared up a little bit so we clocked some km!  Made it all the way down to the island of Møn and camped at Camping Mønbroen, which had some nice, new facilities.  Decided to skip Møn Klint because it was too large a detour and the weather was eh.  Had some light showers as we laid down to sleep, but fortunately our little MSR tent held up!

Di. 14.8.:

  • Sort of early start and had the first booze before noon at Bogø Vingaard.  Excellent red wine and very small production of ~270 bottles a year.  First encounter of a Dane who didn't speak English, but we communicated just fine!  Friendly guy and also has a room for rent.  Small production is why Danish wine isn't availalble in grocery stores or restaurants.  Gotta go straight to the source!  Or a specialty wine store.
  • First of two ferries to take us from Bogø to Stubbekobing.  At this point, we were on 5 different cycle routes!  A few Danish national routes, Berlin-Kopenhagen, and Ostsee.
  • Totally cruising at this point to get to Gedser.  We decided to spend the night in Rostock so wanted to make the 3pm ferry.
  • Ferry from Gedser to Rostock with Scandilines (takes 1h 45m and sails every 2 hours at 7, 9, 11, etc.).  Pedestrian tickets are €20/person and only available at the port (not online).  Bicycle costs €3.
  • Overnight in Rostock at Rostock Übernachtung.

Back in Deutschland:  Way North DE

Mo. 20.8.:  Train at 13:37 from Berlin back to München.

Links

Danish National Cycling Routes Network Map

Scan Maps

Free Camping places map

Camping Map

Bikeway Copenhagen-Berlin incl. GPX downloads

Übernachtungsmöglichkeiten

A Danish B&B Website

Svendborg: B&B