In December 2016, we rode the last Deutsche Bank-operated City Night Line train from Munich to Rome and then onwards to the island of Sizilien...

Train on 30.11.16 nach Roma and stayed at the B&B Mellini.  Turns out the OEBB had already started running the show and that was fine by us because it was wonderful.  It was complete luxury in comparison to the 'deluxe' tuna can we rode in a few years before from Berlin.

Once we arrived in Rome, we rode our Bromptons around.  The crowded & touristy city is difficult to navigate by bike because of car & scooter smog, chaotic traffic, and the old, narrow, cobblestone streets.  It IS nice, however, cycling along the river because the bike & pedestrian path is down closer to water level and seperated completely from the auto traffic above.

We enjoyed taking in the vista from Pincio near Villa Borghese, nur 1km NE from our B&B.  Every morning we had breakfast at the cute Gran Caffé Visconti around the corner from our hotel.

In a touristy city, it can be difficult to find a normal-priced, local, delicious restaurant.  Wandering around our favorite neighborhood of Trastevere, we found our favorite Roman restaurant where we ate twice and learned the most important phrase of this Italian holiday and all future Italian holidays to come: "mezzo rosso."

We went to the Vatican too, but apparently the guards who complained about our little Bromptons didn't get the memo that Pope Francis is environmentally-friendly.

Apertivo is the happiest kind of happy hour.
  • Treebar has its own organic farm, evoo, and beer.  Apertivo with the price of a drink.  Via Flaminia, 226. 2km exactly north of our B&B on the other side of the Tiber.  This was the only beer I had during our time in Italy. 
  • Hotel Locarno happy hour is 7-10pm and the ambiance is Gatsby. Via della Penna, 22.  Just across the bridge from our spot.
  • Salotto 42's apertivo is also 7-10pm with nice house cocktails and organic & vegetarian food.  Piazza di Pietra by the Pantheon and Palazzo Montecitorio.
  • Enoteca il Goccetto: wine, wine, wine and a cold buffet of meats, cheeses, & other delicacies in a palazzo from 1527.  Via dei Banchi Vecchi, 14.  1.5km downriver from us, on the other side of Tiber, in Navona hood.
  • Fafiuché is by the Colosseum and is a smaller local place with apertivo dishes from Piedmont & Puglia.  Via Madonna dei Monti, 28.
  • Panella is a fancier bakery with a big apertivo (from 18:30) spread located just east of the Colosseum. Via Merulana, 54.
  • Gusto al 28 is a central & trendy, but not touristy, place with one the best apertivos in town.  Just across the river from our joint by the Mausoleo di Augusto.
  • VinAllegro is a charming bar perfect for a date <3  Piazza Giuditta Tavani Arquati, 114.  Along the Tiber in Trastevere by the Belli public transit stop and Trastevere fish market. ~2.4km south of our B&B.