Alpen

Wilde Hütten

Mehrtagestouren: von Hütte zu Hütte

Ganzjährig geöffnet:

*So schmecken die Berge

**So schmecken die Berge & Umweltgütesiegel

Garmisch:

Alpinschule
Die Werdenfelser Bergführer
Bergführer Zugspitzland

Zermatt-Randa über 3 Hütten: Flualp, Täschhütte und Europahütte
Hüttentour im Lechquellengebirge:

Lech > Ravensburger Huette*" > Freiburger Huette" > Goeppinger Huette*'" > Lech
Huts open ~mid June until early October.
* So schmecken die Berge
" 2-Bett Zimmer

Andermatt

It's not Zermatt, it's the Andermatt! 😂

SkiArena Andermatt-Sedrun on Schneehöhe.de.

SLF Schneekarten

Some of the more reasonable options at ~150/night include:

Aosta

Rifugio Aosta at the end of the Tza de Tzan glacier is open year-round for ski touring or hiking.  Dreieck:  Rifugio Aosta - Cabana de Bertol - Schönbielhütte (Z) extend to Hörnlihütte (DZ!).

Rifugio Prarayer is on the way to Rifugio Aosta from Italy at the north end of Lac de Places des Moulins.  Lac - Prarayer - Aosta in Val Valpelline on SAC is 4.5h and 820hm:

  • Lac - Prarayer:  von der Staumauer (ca. 1950 m, Parkplatz) des Lac de Place de Moulin nimmt man die Werkstrasse (Fahrverbot) am N-Ende des Stausees und wandert gemütlich und wenig steigend bis zum Rifugio Prarayer (Praz Raye, 2010 m), 1¼ Std. Es bietet sich an, diesen Teil des Zustiegs per Bike zurückzulegen.
  • Prarayer - Aosta:  man verlässt nun den See und geht auf einem beschaulichen Pfad auf dem rechten (N) Ufer des Torrente Buthier. Kurz vor P. 2021 wechselt man für ca. 15 Min. auf die andere Seite des Torrente Buthier. Wieder auf der rechten (N) Seite führt der Weg in ein zunehmend nach N gerichtetes Hochtal. Nun steigt man etwas links auf, kommt dann wieder zum Talboden zurück. Das Tal wird auf der östlichen Seite vom Glacier des Grandes Murailles eingerahmt. Für ca. 2 km folgt man ziemlich flach dem Fluss bis wieder ein steilerer Anstieg zu einer grossen Schwemmebene führt. Nun ist das Rifugio Aosta sichtbar neben dem eindrücklichen Gletscherabbruch des Haut Glacier de Tsa de Tsan. Flach und am rechten Ufer (W) des Bachs weiter bis zu einer Brücke über den Fluss Le Buthier, welche man überquert. Von hier sehr steil nach rechts auf eine Moräne und dieser folgen. Kurz vor der Hütte wieder absteigend und zum Schluss steil hinauf zum Rifugio Aosta. Der Pfad ist gut ausgebaut und markiert.

Arlberg

Skitouren in der nähe Sankt Anton

  • Erlispitze von Zürs:  1064hm / 6 Std., mit dem Zug zur "Langen am Arlberg", weiterfahrt mit dem Bus 91 bis zur "Zürs Posthaus".
  • Trittkopf von Zürs:  1004hm / 2,5 Std., vom Parkplatz der Talstationen der Trittkopfseilbahn geht es der Piste Richtung Norden.
  • Mehlsack:  1174hm / 4 Std., Start in Zug entlang der Langlaufloipe Richtung Formarinsee, an der linken Talseite entlang bis zum grossen Schuttkogel den man dann Aufsteigt.

A > Z

Arolla > 1. Cabane de Bertol > 2. Rifugio Aosta > 3. Schönbielhütte > 4. Cabane de la Dent Blanche > 5. Cabane du Grand Mountet > Zinal

Arolla:

1. Cabane de Bertol:

2. Rifugio Aosta:

3. Schönbielhütte:

4. Cabane de la Dent Blanche:

5. Cabane du Grand Mountet:

Zinal:

or

5. Rothornhütte:

Zermatt:

Haute Route

Everything planned... right down to the perfect amount of toothpaste.  In early February, we set aside the toothpaste tube for the 6-day crossing of the Alps.  The Purist Haute Route to be tackled with Maurizio, our Italian guide from Val di Fassa, and the brothers Vredenburgh.

The Plan:

  • Leaving from the Haeffner Hütte on Sunday, March 8 to go to Lötschental for last minute training.
  • Meet Dad in Verbier on the 12th.  Accommodation at Apartmenthouse Mondzeu, booked through the Swiss company Interhome.  Verbier is super expensive, but you can get bang for your buck as a group in an apartment or chalet. 
  • Vredenburgh arrival on the 15th; Maurizio the next day.  A mix of resort and touring training with avalanche rescue refresher.
  • Go to La Fouly on Wednesday the 18th, from where we'll start the Haute Route on Thursday, March 19th!  Staying in a small dorm room at Auberge des Glaciers.
  • Day 1:  to Cabane de Plan Du Jeu:  79 CHF, 49 HP for guides, +41 79 428 01 75
  • Day 2:  to Cabane de Valsorey:  +41 (0)27 787 11 22
  • Day 3:  to Cabane de Chanrion:  67 CHF, 43 for guides, +41 27 778 12 09
  • Day 4:  to Cabane des Vignettes:  72 CHF, 45 for guides, can pay with card, +41 27 283 13 22
  • Day 5:  to Cabane de Bertol:  72 CHF, 45 for guides, 027 283 19 29
  • Day 6:  long descent to Zermatt where Mom & Dad, Tish, Marlie and Bill would be anxiously awaiting our arrival at Stafelalp or Hennu Stall with a celebratory carmel vodka shot ski.  Sleeping in a 2-bedroom apt at Chalet Bolero.
  • After a few days celebrating and resort skiing with the family, they would return home and we would continue on to Andermatt - not Zermatt, the Ander-matt 😂 - and then catch the second half of the Telemark Fest in Livigno.  We would return home, bronzed raccoons, around April 5th or 6th.

Preparations
Prior to our departure, we accomplished a great deal on the property:  we tore down the back half of the old shed, Lenz Jr. broke up the old cement foundation and dug a hole for the water tank, Karli's guy drilled a hole in the basement wall, we installed drain pipes on the roof and under the deck, we shortened the spruce outer shed walls that were too long (and should've been larch) and covered them with larch wood panels, we positioned cement curbs at the foundation of the shed for ventilation and to prevent earth from sliding unter and fouling the spruce, and finally we carted some topsoil over to create an even ground, which we then covered with grass seed. 

All these chores - combined with the regular office job - made for a 6 or 7-day work week, but they had to be completed before our departure.  It was always spring and blooming when we returned from Livigno so we had to lay the groundwork to then let nature do its thang.  We did it!!  It was a huge relief and not without a couple breakdowns.  We even had time for an occasional hike to Rolf's.

So now we can leave, but to where?  The living room was covered with gear as Christian prepared and packed all the equipment.  We packed our clothes and toiletries and twice went through Maurizio's checklist.  I studied multiple maps to find the perfect place on the way to Verbier with snow, ski touring, and ski lifts.  Yes, lifts because downhill training was also necessary - with absolutely no snow in Bavaria this winter, we had had only ONE SKI DAY in Tyrol when we walked up Ellmauer Tor.  Ultimately, Christian suggested checking out the SLF's snow maps and comparing them with resort stats on schneehoehen.de.  And that's how we discovered the Magic Valley.

Magic Valley ✨
Lötschental reportedly had 460cm snow on the mountain, a plethora of ski tour options, and a klein aber fein resort where the gondola topped out at 3111m.  We stayed at Hotel Bietschhorn - named for one of the many majestic 4000ers surrounding the valley - in Kippel.  With the bus stop directly in front of the house, it was an easy arrival with our 4 bags:  ski bag, boot & clothing bag, 2 equipment backpacks.

Kippel

The Hotel has a fantastic restaurant with the best Käsefondue we've ever had.  There are two other restaurants in town and a few more options in the neighboring village of Wiler.  The cable car up to the ski area is in Wiler; 2 stops with the hourly bus or 10 mins. walk.

Day 1:  finally back on skis and walked up 1000m from our hotel to the mountain hamlet of Hockenalp to the ski area and ended at the Pfirri Bar where we had a bottle of Valaisanne beer before skiing down the Talabfahrt to the Skiloipe and home to hotel.  Long day on skis, but feeling good.

In the hotel restaurant at dinner, a table of 4 Americans loudly discussed the corona virus and swiped on their phones.  We were already sick of hearing about the virus, which was mild in most cases.  The Beitzels had canceled their trip (March 7-14) to Zermatt because of the virus and Marlie had messaged me a few days earlier on March 6 to say she, Tish & Bill had also canceled their trip, planned for March 21-28.  At this point, the virus affected 0.002% of the Swiss population.  The media, however, was already getting hysterical in the US.  Thankfully the brothers Vredenburg and my parents were still planning to come!

Snow the next day meant a wet walk up to Hockenalp and we quickly headed down after 800hm.  Maurizio asked where is the meeting point in Verbier. 

Sunshine on the third day meant lifting and lots of downhill!  We ran into our Swiss friend Philip, that we know from the fest in Livigno.  There were a few telemarkers on the mountain and we had a lovely afternoon skiing with Philip and his friends before après-ski beers in the sunshine with an amazing mountain panorama.

Bietschhorn

We could already see the Haute Route... from Mont Blanc to the Matterhorn.

pano

That morning, however, Maurizio said he wouldn't be able to leave Italy so Verbier local Mauro would be our Haute Route guide.  That night, Dad called to say he might cancel his trip.  He was supposed to leave in a few hours, but was having doubts.  After an emotional (on my side) exchange, he eventually boarded his plane to Zurich.  Daddy's little girl always gets her way! 😂👸🏽 

While in the air, Trump announced restrictions for European travelers into the US from the Schengen Zone.  I awoke to text messages from Sam & Peter that said they were heavily leaning towards canceling their trip.  So far, flights were still flying as scheduled.  My Dad arrived no problem in Zurich and we left Kippel to meet him as planned in Martigny.

Zermatt with Cars
Of course the Swiss train system was punctual and I ran to meet Daddy at his platform!  It was a fairly easy transfer to Verbier.  From Le Châble, you can take a bus or gondola up to Verbier and we opted for the 11 CHF/person gondola ride.  A steel cage for luggage occasionally replaced a gondola. 

Verbier was bustling with people and SUVs; reeking of money and diesel - quite the shock after quiet Kippel.  It was a long 800m to the Interhome office and apartment with all our luggage in tow, but the apartment was great.  Two bedrooms, very spacious and a balcony with a view to the mountains across the valley in Bruson.  Bruson has a few lifts, all included in our 4-Vallée ski pass, and we planned to do a ski tour with the Vreds from the top of the ski area to a nearby peak.

We had all bought our ski passes in advance online and we could use them the day before validity from 15:00 so we headed up the mountain!  We took a fairly empty cable car up to Col des Gentianes.  We passed Cabane du Mont Fort, where Christian started his Haute Route in 2010.  Many lifts were open until 16:45 so we got in a decent amount of shredding.  We skied down to Verbier and went directly to Pub Mont Fort - it was hopping; a fun stop for pitchers of beer (21 CHF) and pub grub.

Friday the 13th was cloudy and we lollygagged getting up on the mountain, but once we did, it was gorgeous weather.  Wonderful ski day and Christian & I took the cable car up to Mont Fort and skied the black bowl.  Magnificent views.  The ungroomed ski routes are incredibly long with fun, varied terrain.

verbier

When we skied down to the village, we didn't come out behind the Pub as planned so we dropped our gear at the apartment and ventured back out on foot, hoping they would still serve us beer at the Pub without ski boots.

Drunken Brits swarmed the Pub per usual, but a young lass slurred, "Fermez!  It's so ridiculous..." as we neared.  A sign on the door proclaimed its closure per Swiss federal government regulations.  We went to Relais des Neiges restaurant instead for an early dinner - the Rösti was delicious and the restaurant was quiet and empty.

The next morning, I awoke to text messages that Dad was leaving immediately.  Sam & Peter returned their flight tickets.  As a precaution against the spread of corona, the Swiss authorities forbid gatherings of more than 50 people and closed all the ski resorts.  With the après-ski bar shut down, TO wanted to get out of Dodge ASAP.

Mauro

Mauro

Maurizio first contacted Mauro back in December to gain some expert, local knowledge about the Haute Route.  When Italy closed its borders on March 10/11, Maurizio confirmed that Mauro would be our guide instead.  On Saturday afternoon, our Haute Route group was down to two as we met Mauro at Relais des Neiges.  We all ordered large, Valaisanne draft beers and discussed the options.

It had been a decent winter in the high altitude Alps.  Following the main alpine ridge, stable weather is hard to come by on the Haute Route.  The weather calendar showed sunshine all week - conditions were ideal.

Usually a mountain guide in chic, überreich Verbier costs upwards of 600 CHF/day.  Mauro agreed to accept the daily rate that the 4 of us would've paid to Maurizio, which meant Christian and I were paying double what we had planned, but hey, it was our 10-year anniversary Haute Route!

With Dad gone and the lifts closed down, there was no reason to stay in Verbier so we took advantage of the weather forecast and decided to leave from La Fouly on Monday morning.  That meant we had all day Sunday to pack up, get to La Fouly (easy bus & train transfer, ~90 mins.), and do a little ski prep.

La Fouly
Despite its location along the Haute Route, I can't imagine a hotel/hostel less suited to skiers and mountaineers than Auberge des Glaciers. 😂  Supposedly, you must book your stay with half pension.  A bed in a dorm room with half pension costs 85 CHF/person.  Breakfast, however, doesn't start until 8:00 (a time when most ski tourers already have 100hm behind them).  But they were nice enough to compensate our missed breakfast with a bagged lunch... a lunch whose plastic packaging managed to outshine even the duty-free packaging for liquids at the airport.  The swollen, airtight plastic pouch was about the same size as one of our 35L backpacks and contained a small plastic bottle of Henniez water, an orange, a Mars bar, a cheese sandwich (also wrapped in plastic of course)... all that and a bag of chips.  All this for us to enjoy at 3000m on our high alpine ski tour.

Sophie stood at the door of our 6-bed dormitory room, which we thankfully had to ourselves that night, proudly holding two ginormous plastic bubble bags and I was too shocked to tell her that those are impossible for us to bring.  Everything you bring with you to the mountains, you take home.  Our backpacks were already packed to the gills with apples for the week. 🍎  Christian unpacked the sandwiches and oranges and returned everything else.  Then I made him go back to get the candy bars too. 😂

Mauro came by right around the time I was a having a minor panic attack wondering if I physically could accomplish the Haute Route, but I pulled myself together as we checked our equipment.  Crampons; ice axes; ski crampons; skins; avalanche shovels, probes, and transceivers... gang was all there. ✔  I clumsily poked the hard snow bank next to the terrace with my 3m long avalanche probe pondering that this thing would probably be more of a hindrance than a help to me if ever needed.

The Auberge's restaurant was closing for the night so our half pension dinner was at the pizzeria down the road.  Excellent pizza and local, draft beer - definitely worth a return visit.

HAUTE ROUTE!!
The wind was howling all night making for a nervous sleep (on my part, Christian slept like a baby).  I checked the mountain hut websites - all still open.  Only Cabane des Vignettes, the largest of the huts, mentioned the virus by reiterating the 50 person/room max.  We organized for the SBB to pick up our 2 bags on Thursday, but Sophie said the hotel may be closed on Thursday.  Mauro got her digits and we figured that we'd figure it out somehow.

We squeezed into Mauro's little red Fiat and cruised 5 mins. to the end of the road.  A few other cars and ski tourers were also there.  We put on the skis and set off...

It was a long, very gradual ascent to the end of the valley.  We were mostly in the shade and it was extremely windy - nature trying to blow us back? 💨  When we finally left the wind tunnel and entered the sunshine, we lathered on the sunscreen and started climbing up, up, up.

10:23

Over old avalanches:

me

The morning snow was harder at higher elevations so we took off our skis, attached them to our backpack, and slapped on the crampons.  I had never used crampons before and was pleasantly surprised how sturdy and grippy they felt.  Mauro advised to sink the entire surface area of the crampon into the snow for the best grip and to trust the crampons to do their job.  Only one part for a few meters was too steep for my taste. 

12:11

We put the skis back on and continued our ascent.  The scenery is spectacular with Mont Blanc and the other 4000ers.

12:45

Completely surrounded by a sea of mountains.  The Great White Ocean.

13:22

Unbeknownst to us at the onset, Mauro had a slightly different route in mind than what we had seen in our guide book.  Instead of crossing the ridge at the gentler Col du Fenêtre d'en Haut, Mauro wanted us to play with more of our equipment, such as the ice axes, and cross at Col des Trois Lacs.  We went as far as possible - maybe even a little too far - with the skis, before perching above a boulder to take the skis off and put on the crampons. 

The remaining 50m stretch to the ridge was pretty darn vertical - maybe ~60 degrees. 

14:28

With the ice axe, you can plunge the handle into the snow as an anchor (surprisingly strong anchor!) or use the head of the axe as a claw.  Using all 4 limbs - and only leaving one free at a time - we hacked our way to the top.  For this part, Mauro secured me to him with a rope.  Hanging out at 2630m, he tied a solid knot, which I looped through my carabiner on my harness (we wear the harnesses all day).

15:02

I'm a ski mountaineer now.  I didn't even cry at the top! 🏅

14:49

All the height meters (~1300) we had just conquered on the west ridge, we could now cruise down on the east side in the sunshine.  The snow was slightly packed and crusty at the top (2672m), but softened to a comfortable slush as we shaved off altitude. 

15:07

15:15

15:152

We descended ~700m along the Combe de Drône to Bourg-Saint-Bernard where we slapped on the skins for the last bit up to Cabane de Plan du Jeu at 2081m. 

Cabane de Plan du Jeu

plan du jeu

François, the hut guardian, happily awaited us wearing his straw sun hat that has a bright blue "La vie est belle" appliqué.  He promptly brought us 3 big beers from Grand St. Bernard and a sausage.  Our vegetarianism took a time out as we nibbled at salami slices.  We quaffed our brews and peeled off our socks.  The basket-style camper chairs were a welcome relief for our tired legs.  We gazed at the mountains from which we came and marveled at the distance we covered - this isn't just skiing, it's a ski travel. 😎

Upon our arrival, François apprised of us the latest virus developments and said the Swiss government ordered the closure of all mountain huts.  We initially thought we may be able to do our second leg to Cabane de Valsorey, but as the night progressed, the police called François to ensure his compliance and we slowly accepted that this would be the end of our Haute Route.  No hut could remain open.

Reverse Haute Route
We left François to enjoy his wood-fired jacuzzi and decided to tour back to La Fouly.  Since Mauro had unexpectedly taken us over the Col des Trois Lacs, we could go a different return route over the Col du Grand-Saint-Bernard and Col du Fenêtre d'en Haut.  This meant <900hm climb and ~1300m descent!

As with the previous day, we had a long, gradual climb to the Hospice, which of course was closed.  After a slight traverse, we had another 300m climb to the Col at 2722m.  The sun was shining and it was hot.  With bittersweet accomplishment we reached the ridge:  the Purist Haute Route and the Reverse Haute Route in 2 days... must be a record! 😂

13:52

The descent was a dream with proper pow at the top and soft slush lower.  The last part of the descent was the same as yesterday's ascent.  What I had thought was so steep on crampons, was a breeze going down.

After some marvelous turns, we arrived back in La Fouly.  The grocery store was open so we could still enjoy an après-ski beer in the sun. ☀️  With everything closed and nowhere to go, Mauro generously offered us his sofa bed.

Our guide in life and in the mountains, Mauro cooked us a delicious risotto dinner as I clicked around on his computer making our return trip arrangements.  Including our sojourn in Tyrol, we had a total of 8 ski days in the 2019/2020 winter season. 😞  So it is during climate and virus crises.  At least the travel restrictions and lock-downs allow the climate a temporary reprieve. 🌍

Packlist
Equipment:
  • Skis + poles
  • Ski Boots
  • Skins
  • Transceiver
  • Shovel
  • Avalanche Probe
  • Ice Axe
  • Crampons
  • Ski crampons
  • Velcro ski tie
  • Headlamp
  • Harness
  • 1 X 8ft Sling, 2 X Screw-gate Karabiners, 2 X snap link Karabiners
  • 1 X Ice Screw
  • Sleeping bag liner
Clothes:
  • Ski pants + jacket
  • Wool base layers: Pata + Ibex shirts, orthovox leggings
  • R1 and/or fleece
  • Gloves - blk + gray
  • Hat, sunhat
  • Neck gaiter
  • Pata & new blk leggings
  • White Pata jacket
  • Australia sweater
  • Blk ibex turtleneck
  • 2 pairs ski socks
  • 1 pair normal socks
  • 5 underwear
  • Sportsbra, Perla bra
Accessories:
  • Sunglasses + Googles
  • Mobile Phone with charger
  • Snacks
  • Water bottle
  • Earplugs
  • 6x AAA
  • iPod + Ladegerat + cable
  • C’s camera + akkus
Toiletries:
  • Suncream + lipstick
  • Blister bandaids, ASS
  • Saline solution & lens case
  • Laundry soap bar
  • Tootbrush + Toothpaste

HR2

We couldn't pass up a spontaneous mini-HR when Mauro offered us to join a group of 3 Italians.

Day 1

Lifts up to Col des Gentianes, then out into the wild.

Day 2 and 3

Down to Arolla because Vignettehütte is booked.

Day 4

Up to Tête Blanche then to Schönbielhütte (?), down to Z.

Kitzbüheler Alpen

Gasthof Wegscheid: Skitourenparadies! +43 664 5407111

Skitour Schafsiedel: Ausgangspunkt Gasthof Wegscheid, Gehzeit 3h 30m, 1335m Höhendifferenz

Skitour Stanglhöhe: Ausgangspunkt Gasthof Wegscheid, Gehzeit 2h 40m, 1132m Höhendifferenz

Skitour Steinbergstein: Ausgangspunkt Gasthof Wegscheid, Gehzeit 3h, 1085m Höhendifferenz

 

Skitour Niederjochkogel: Ausgangspunkt Erlauerhütte, Gehzeit 3h, 990m Höhendifferenz

Livigno

After a day in the mountains, few things can be more satisfying than a fresh, cold beer.  Generally, however, one is hard-pressed to find something in the Alps not owned by Heineken.  Therefore, I am supremely happy with a bottle from the region, but sometimes in life... the stars align...

I crashed the XX La Skieda in Livigno, Italy by joining Christian on his annual pilgrimage.  I was uncharacteristically relatively uninvolved in the planning process.  Going with a seasoned pro, I went with the flow and the festival current quickly carried me to an afternoon of live music, beer, and sunshine amidst the glistening, white Alps at Passo d'Eira.

The singer of that band turned out to be a fellow expat American, Gary, who lives in Chamonix.  I was there with Kevvy-Kev and the parentals in in the first days of 2013 so we started discussing the lively mountaineering village and, natürlich, I mentioned how much I enjoyed the microbrewery in town, Micro Basserie de Chamonix.  In the one week we were in Chamonix, we went to MBC twice.  It is classic microbrewery with good pub grub and a nice selection of proprietary drafts.  Gary casually responded, "Oh yeah, the drummer owns that place."  WHAT?!?!  

Living in New York City, you often see movie stars and some people get strangely very excited about that, which I've never understood:  it's like seeing a deer in Pennsylvania.  The only notable celebrity in NYC that I saw (and MET and TALKED to and received a GIFT from in the form of a beautiful bottle opener keychain) is Sam from Dogfish Head so I was also excited to meet Matt, one of the Canadian owners of MBC.

To save the villagers from drowning in 1664, Matt and some other maple leaves created MBC.  Go there if you're in France.  Or in Switzerland.  Or Italy.  It's all close by American standards.  Matt also enlightened me to the existence of a microbrewery in Livigno.

I had a bad experience with Italians and breweries... Sam from Dogfish Head, for whatever reason, collaborated with Mario Battali to create La Birreria in NYC.  It had so much potential being on a rooftop in the Flatiron district, but is the antithesis of a relaxing, beer garden.  Never go there.  Trust me.  If you do - it's your time and [a lot of] money...  I went more than once to make sure the awful experience wasn't a fluke, but, as they say...  Fool me once, shame on you.  Fool me twice, shame on me.  

Though I was scarred by this initial experience, I was definitely reassured by the fact that brewmaster Matt recommended it and he did not steer me wrong.  1816 Birrificio a Livigno (Via Pontiglia 37) is the "highest beer in Europe" as 1,816m is the elevation of Livigno - what a cool title to possess.  They brew a nice Helles and though it has become more popular over the years, it's still a good place to go off-hours for a pizza and beverage.  The icing on the cake was a one-man band playing American classic rock tunes.  He played well and sang the lyrics so accurately that I could've sworn I was in the presence of yet another fellow expat, but his response to my, 'are you American?' was a confused, 'Ehhh??'  Ha!  Italians...

Livigno Logistics

Tunnel

Pamela's Hotel:  Hotel San Rocco +39 0342 996066 Via Saroch 782

Residence Gardenia

Lötschental

Sleeping at Hotel Bietschhorn in Kippel next to the Lauchernalp Skigebiet.

Skitours:

Moena

Scufoneda:  March 13-17, 2019

El Rebechin:  piccola cucina calda, enoteca, local hangout

Pizzeria at Hotel Stella:  good prices and pizza

Agritur El Mas:  Slow Food ristorante con produzione propia come formaggi, gelati, e salumi.  Can check it out on our way into town, Str. Saslonch 174.

Appartmenti di Bruno:  Bruno & Gina DeFrancesco, Riccardo Löwy Str. 74, +39 340 791 3490, €402 Euros for 6 nights in a 2-bedroom/1-bath apt (#7) in March 2018.

Un Mese in Italia

Departure on Tues. 12.3. to Moena, ~3h 37m.  Staying at Hotel Faloria.  Scufoneda festival 13-17.3.  Depart on Mon. 18.3. for Cortina, ~2h.

Cortina for 4 nights at Hotel Olimpia from Mon. 18.3. to Fri. 22.3.

  • Al Passetto: where we ate our first night on rec from Patagonia guy, excellent red beet ravioli & gorgonzola pizza, across from bus station
  • Panino Top Bar: sort of across the street from Patagonia, cheap build-your-own paninis, dive bar w Spaten 😝
  • Ai Due Forni: casual pizzeria across the street from local enoteca Bar Deleca (?), sort of around the corner from Patti, 2€ for tasty slices or 6€ for an entire margherita pizza to go
  • Ristorante Pizzeria Il Ponte: looks like a cozy spot w local red beet rav specialty and woodoven pizza, towards end ped zone by Salewa store

Meran for the last days of the Meran 2000 season!  Overnight at Garni Domus Mea w Massimo & fam: central, spacious room w balcony, great price.

  • Meran 2000 is open until 24.3. and the last week is 'Gusto on Snow' where 9 of the mountains huts participate in offering a special Kaiserschmarrn
  • Gatto Nero: a Forst place with typical dishes of the region like Spinatspätzle & Schlupfkrafen
  • La Smorfia Pizzeria near the hospital at Via Goethe 28
  • Laubenkeller on Via Portici 118 for typical south Tyrolean cuisine
  • Bar Trattoria Mainardo on Via Mainardo 18
  • We are very happy at Domus Mea, but other potential places that responded to my inquiry and seem nice are Hotel Aster, Siegler im Thurm, and Schloss Pienzenau.

Vinschgau again and again in Prad at Pension Astoria with Florian & fam.  This time joined by the English fam, Ian & Mick!

  • Sulden open until May, 40+ km Pisten
  • Trafoi open until ?, 15km Pisten
  • Watles open until 31.3., 18+ km Pisten, up the mountain from Burgeis
  • Schöneben-Haideralm, on west side of Reschensee from Reschen and St. Valentin, open until 27.4., 60km Pisten
  • Pizzeria Panorama in Prad: had an excellent dinner here with Mom & Dad. Closed Wednesdays.
  • Also want to return to Calva Restaurant & Pizzera in Latsch bei Mals for pizza and homemade gelato. Closed Tuesdays.
  • Gasthof St. Georg is a short walk or bike from Prad and has tasty regional cuisine and wine.

On the way to Livigno from Prad after Ofenpass in Switzerland is Berggasthaus Buffalora:  gorgeous scenery at the cozy, local hangout.  We were too late in the season for the tiny ski area, Minschuns, just outside of Tschierv - maybe next time!

Fri. 29.3. to Livigno!  8 nights at Pamela's Hotel San Rocco.

Vinschgau Velo

Wed. 2. Mai: M&D arrive in ZRH.  Train ZRH to Landeck: 3h with one change at Zürich Hbf. 

  • Sleeping: Hotel Schrofenstein, Malserstr. 31 for 2 nights; paid in full via credit card.  M&D liked this hotel and its breakfast buffet, which went beyond the usual cheese and meat platter.

Thurs. 3. Mai: J&C arrive in Landeck at 16:31 on Track 2 with EC 164 (first train from Munich to Innsbruck is EC 89), meet at train station.  Cycle with all our Bromptons to M&D's hotel where the Bromptons rested up for their big journey.

  • Landeck is pretty quiet this time of year, between the ski and summer seasons.  After tucking in the Bromptons, we walked up and around the corner to Gasthof Greif and had some welcome wine and local Tirolean Starkenberger beer from Tarrenz (22km NE of Landeck).  Uncle Doug helped out with the travel planning here and recommended Uncle John's Restaurant and Pizzeria for dinner.
  • Sleeping for J&C: Gasthof Greif, around the corner from Schrofenstein at Marktplatz 6.  Cozy guesthouse and restaurant/bar area.  At €80 I found it to be slightly over-priced given the old condition and simple breakfast, but it was one of the few places in town open and almost half the price of M&D's hotel.

Fri. 4. Mai: 10:00 bus to Nauders, 11:10 arrival. 

  • We picked up the cycle path to Reschenpass in Nauders so it was easy navigating to our destination of Reschen am See.  It was 7.4km and 180m uphill.  The uphill wasn't severe because it was small, rolling hills as opposed to constant up.  We (except Christian of course) walked the bikes at a few different points and took our time to admire the dramatic mountain scenery.
  • Arrival at Reschenpass - 1504m - was surprisingly anti-climatic given that there is no major signage.  There is, however, an Italian flag and cycle map. 
  • Most everything was closed as we arrived hungry in the town of Reschen am See.  We wanted to eat at Giernhof, but it was closed.  We ended up at the Cafe at Garni Wallnöfer, which was perfect: Mom and I had a plate of delicious gorgonzola and our first glasses of Südtirolean wine.
  • Happy hour at Elly's Bar in Hotel Edelweiss.
  • Sleeping: in Reschen at Appartement Prieth.  Cash only.  This was our cheapest accomodation for the entire trip at just €80 total for all 4 of us.  The apartment was very nice and we cooked pesto pasta at home.

Sat. 5. Mai: Cycle to Prad, 28km.  The best cycle day!

  • 865m downhill!  The cycle path is hilly along the west side of the lake, but is all downhill from St. Valentin.  Throughout our trip, navigation was a breeze and we were primarily on a separate cycle path.  All we had to do was follow the bike path signs to Meran.
  • On the way: gorgeous mountain scenery, Sennerei/Latteria in Burgeis for a cheesy snack break, lunch at Calva Restaurant & Pizzeria in Laatsch bei Mals, Eis at Gelateria Riedl (Christian had an awesome Vinschgauer Apfeleis) in the scenic medieval Glurn.  At Calva we had an excellent Knödel-Tris, Spargelsuppe, and homemade ice cream!  One of our favorite meals even though we were too early to try their pizza, ab 17:00 und mit Hanfmehlteig!
  • Pizzeria Panorama in Prad has Hanfmehlteig too and it was a culinary highlight of the trip: relaxed pizzeria ambiance, super friendly owners, delicious pizza and wine. Christian and I kept it seasonal with a Spargelpizza on Hanfmehlteig.
  • Sleeping: Pension Astoria!  Nice to see Fabian again and we both had very nice rooms.

Sun. 6. Mai: Cycle to Kastelbell-Tschars, 29km. 

  • Late start due to Maifest in Prad!  We all went up to the old church in Prad where there was a great panoramic outlook over the region.  Mom, C & I left as the priest started defending (/praising?) Schroder (idiot Bavarian politician who wants to put crosses in every public building and school - even though crosses are already extremely prevalent in Catholic Bayern).  The 3 of us had a nice little cycle tour to the fish pond and met Dad at the fest.  It was a beautiful, warm, sunny day and after some wine, beer, and food we rode on towards Kastelbell.
  • Eis und Kaffee stop in Laas at Cafe Patisserie Greta Walter.
  • Asparagus season! 
  • Pension Gstirnerhof in Kastelbell: hotel and restaurant with beer garden, house wine, own farm products, regional and traditional cuisine, asparagus menu, bike-friendly.  Like a dream arriving here.  Awesome rooms, tasty red wine von Eigenbau, pool, fantastic beer garden, and cozy and lively Kellerbar where we had a night cap and played cards.
  • Dinner at Angerguterkeller.  C unfortunately rolled the dice with the Kalbskopf platter, but the rest of us enjoyed our Knödel and spinach Schlutzkrapfen.  Lagrein aus Eigenbau!
  • Sleeping: Pension Gstirnerhof in Kastelbell - fantastic spot!

Mon. 7. Mai: Cycle to Forst/Algund, 19km.

Tues. 8. Mai: Cycle to Lana, 8km.

  • Early start to Meran, which was only a couple kilometers.  Meran is a beautiful city and we immediately wished we had spent the night here instead of Algund.  Biked/walked around the city center, had coffee and croissant at Caffè Darling on the river Passer.
  • Vineyards:
    • Marlengo: Weingut-Garni Popphof, **Bio Weingut Gruberhof** - had a lovely tasting at the Gruberhof and bought a couple bottles to go.  We were too late for lunch at a restaurant so ate at the lively corner bakery, Mein Beck.
    • Baslan/Tscherms: Weingut Oberstein, *Buschenschank Weingut Haidenhof (beautiful wine garden with fresh farm food, open until 19:00), and Kränzelhof (with seasonal restaurant Miil, seems fancy) - didn't make it to any of these as it was getting late in the afternoon and we had had plenty of wine so far. 😉
  • Lana: Slow Food restaurant Oberwirt am Gries - yummy food though not all local/regional; Mama's favorite!  Had a nightcap beer at the wonderful Hausbrauerei Pfefferlechnerkeller.  Beautiful beer garden and restaurant with regional food - wish we could have eaten more meals in Lana!
  • Sleeping: Garni Wohlauf is a great spot.  Enjoyed a refreshing dip in the pool.

Wed. 9. Mai: Cycle to Bozen, 26km. 

  • We cruised from Lana to Terlan.  It was a little early to stop for lunch so we continued onto Bozen.  The GPS battery died so it was slightly tricky navigating, but thankfully we found our way to Gries and had an excellent lunch at Hotel Post Gries.  C & I both ordered homemade Spargel ravioli, which were so good that C tried to order a second portion - unfortunately the chef had left for his break until dinner. 😂 The nice waitress was happy to bring him a cheese plate instead. 
  • Clouds had aggregated by the time we finished lunch and it was a windy 1km bike ride to the organic Reyter vineyard.  We really wanted to support the miniscule bio wine culture in Südtirol, but they were having an internal meeting.  Will plan better for our next visit!
  • Muri-Gries Vineyard in Bozen was thankfully open and right across the street from our lunch spot. We tasted a few wines and were delighted with the previously unknown to us Lagrein Rosé.
  • St. Paul's: Weingut Bergmannhof (has Lagrein!), Weingut Klaus Lentsch, Weingut Donà, Weingut Abraham, and Weingut Felton - we didn't make it to any of these because we stayed on the more direct route to Bozen.  There are tons of vineyards in this area.
  • Weisses Rössl Restaurant: oldest restaurant in Bozen with regional cuisine.  Very touristy with hurried waitresses. 
  • Sleeping: Bozenapartments Garibaldi, Via Garibaldi 36A. 

Thurs. 10. Mai: in Bozen. 

  • Panetteria Grandi provided tasty croissants and pizzabrot for breakfast and we visited the sustainable grocery store NOVO for a coffee.  Of course we support NOVO's concept, but there were too many plastic wrapped products.  Doesn't compare to our wonderful Ohne Laden in Munich. 😊
  • Cable car to Oberbozen and train to Klobenstein.  We did a small round (Fernweg 20) in the woods, which had a lookout point to see the Earth Pyramids.  Due to the weather, we weren't in the mood for a longer walking tour to see the Pyramids up close.  As we enjoyed a pizza lunch at Pizzeria Zentral, the sun came out. ☀️
  • After lunch, we took the train back to Oberbozen.  We explored a bit before settling in the sun at Café Fink for wine and rummy.  Wonderful afternoon up in the mountains.
  • For dinner we took a break from the regional cuisine, which can be quite heavy, and opted for Humus das Bio Bistro for lighter mediterranean fare.  Delicious change of pace, but the wine selection is on the expensive side and, unlike many places in the region, they do not have a reasonably-priced, open housewine.
  • We had beers and apple strudel at Hopfen & Co., which is a fantastic Hausbrauerei with a cozy, wooden ambiance.

Fri. 11. Mai: M&D train from Bozen to Venice, 3h with one change in Verona.

  • Pur Südtirol: grocery store with exclusively regional products.  Had a nice goodbye brunch here and C & I bought a couple more bottles of excellent Südtirol wine to bring home.
Potential Hotels:
zu Ort Logistics:

April to Oktober:  Hotel overnights include the Vinschgau Card for free and unlimited travel on public trains and busses.  Die Vinschger Bahn.

Südtiroler Wine Road with Wine Pass available from all participating hotels/guesthouses and included in room price.  A lot of the hotels are in the area between Valpian-Nals and Bozen.