Kroatien

Croatian Train: night trains from München to Rijeka or Zagreb.

Jadrolinija

Festivals

Summer 2019 project is to attend a chill beach music festival.

Obonjan Island

June 30-Sept. 2 on Obonjan Island just off shore from Šibenik.  Private island with 'glamping' starting at €80/night.  Various activities and events held throughout the summer such as DJs, yoga, kayaking, etc.

Ultra Europe

Stadium Poljud in Split, July 12-14.  Associated events include parties on Hvar and a Yacht Regatta.

Seasplash Festival

Martinska, Sibenik July 18-21.  Reggae, dub and bass music. 

TAM TAM Music Festival

Sućuraj on Hvar July 21-28.  Various venues around the tiny town with bands.

Suncé Beat

The Garden Tisno July 24-31.  "Soul has no musical, geographical or racial boundaries."

Blast Fest

Martinska, Sibenik August 16-18.  Free entry, electronic music, chill.

Outlook Festival

Pula Sept. 4-9.

Goulash Disko

Komiža, Komiza Sept. 11-15.  Crowdfunded and sponsor-free with an eclectic line-up.

Dalmatia

... is one of four Croatian historical and cultural regions and stretches from the island of Rab in the north to the Kotor Bay in Montenegro in the south.  Split is the largest city and end-station of the night train from Zagreb.

Getting there:
  • Afternoon train from Munich or Prien to Zagreb, night train from Zagreb to Split (6:45 arrival).  Same return gets into Munich at 15:33 or can do the opposite on return trip:  afternoon train Split to Zagreb, night train Zagreb to Munich (5:57 arrival).  Also night trains between Munich & Zagreb.
  • From the US for Marlie, Elena, Kerri...🙋🏽:  fly direct from PHL to Dubrovnik (Sun., Tues., Fri.), ferry to Hvar (multiple sailings per day with Jadrolinija or Krilo lines, ~3h).  Return flights on Mon., Wed., Sat.
  • Train to/from Ancona via Bologna (8h50m).  Ferries between Ancona and Zadar (Gazenica), Hvar (Stari Grad), and Split.
  • Jadrolinija Ferry
  • Krilo Ferry
Island hopping:
  • Train to Zagreb; then overnight train to Trogir, Kastel Stari or Split.
  • Day 1:  AM arrival in Trogir, Kastel Stari or Split and spend the night there.
  • Day 2:  ferry to Hvar, stay 4 nights. 
  • Day 3:  day trip to Paklinski otoci beaches.
  • Day 4:  day trip on the island with bikes (?) or [water] taxis (?) to vineyards, lavender fields, other beaches, etc.
  • Day 5:  day trip to Vis and Komiža to see blue & green caves or to another beach on Hvar or Paklinski otoci.
  • Day 6:  ferry to Lastovo (daily at 16:15, 2h) via Vela Luka and spend the night there.  Can eat dinner at the harbor at Konoba Pece.
  • Day 7:  chilling in Lastovo, the entire island is national park.
  • Day 8:  ferry from Lastovo direct to Split (2h) at 7:00 on So. or from Lastovo at 11:15 to Vela Luka, arrival 13:00, then 13:45 departure to Split, arrival 16:30.
Accomodation possibilities:

Lastovo

  • Studio Ubli 8354a:  studio with terrace and seaview, 600m from harbor
  • Guesthouse Sandor in Zaklopatica
  • Apartments Madirazza in Pasadur

Hvar

On the return trip from Montenegro, we cycled north along the coast and into Croatia.  We spent a night at a very strange commune-type of place in Mikulići that we found via WarmShowers.  Beautiful area though, especially Molunat, which is where we caught the bus to Dubrovnik (heard the street is too crazy and trafficky to cycle).

Dubrovnik was a shitshow - I have rarely seen so many freaking tourists. The three A's of tourists were amply represented: Americans, Arabs, Asians.  Although we had planned to spend a night or two there, we wanted to get out of dodge ASAP. 

We got tickets for the next ship to Hvar.  We were scheduled a couple days later for the overnight ferry from Stari Grad, Hvar to Ancona, Italy and then with the train from Ancona back to Munich.  An awesome Adriatic round that started with a train ride to Bari and then overnight ferry to Bar, Montenegro.

The ferry from Dubs to Hvar took about 3 hours and we went straight to the tourist office to get a room.  Last room in town was an €85/night, centrally-located apartment.  It even had a little cellar room for our bike :)  Apartment was nothing special, but we were simply happy to have found something.  Spontaneous travel isn't easy in the high season! 

The town of Hvar is awesome.  Classy tourism compared to Ulcinj.  It's totally bustling in the high season with tons of fun little restaurants, cafes, and bars.  I can't wait to go back with Marlie - hopefully next summer!

Unfortunately, Hvar town was completely booked up and we had to move along. We were able to squeeze in a water taxi to Mlini beach (paradise!) on Otok Marinkovak island, part of the Pakleni island chain, and swim before rushing back to clear out of our apartment.  We cycled to Stari Grad with a nice swim stop along the way in Zarace.

Stari Grad is a cute, quiet village and we were happy to stay in the Hostel Sunce - good relief for the wallet.  Eremitaz is a fantastic Slow Food restaurant along the water - pleasant bike ride there and back on the waterfront path.

We took a water taxi (~14 euros roundtrip per person) to Bol on the island of Brac, swam at the famous Zlatni Rat, and hung out at the nudist beach because it was the least crowded.  We made our own booze cruise this day and brought along 2l of Croatian wine that we shared with a Czech couple.  Bol is also a cute town, but my favorite of these couple towns is Hvar because you could easily spend a week there and take water taxis to different beaches every day.

Mali Losinj

Getting there:
Island trekking:
  • Di. 7. Juli:  9:30 arrival in Rijeka.  Walk to Trsat fortress, Glavanovo beach and/or weiter to Pécine public beach, visit maritime museum.  17:00 ferry to Mali Losinj.  Sleeping at Apartmani Loreta, Zagrebačka ulica 6, +385911233334.  Nice dinner at Konoba Corrado.
  • Mi. 8. Juli:  walk to Ilovik via the Aromatic Garden, Providenca lookout, SW coast, Restoran Balvanida, shuttle boat to Ilovik.  Sleeping 2 nights at Apts Sabina (€70/night).  Ate both nights at Porto because of friendly owner family and scenic spot on the water.
  • Do. 9. Juli:  walk to Przine & other beaches & bays around Ilovik.
  • Fr. 10. Juli:  early ferry to Susak.  Sleeping 3 nights at Barbara's.  Love Barbara's place and restaurant, but location next to church means early wake-up call (5:45) from church bells and then they ring every 15 mins.
    • Walk and swim and Bok Bay, beautiful & sandy.
    • 🇭🇷 +385917697073 Capt. Dennis boat tours on a small boat (€75/day) or large boat for groups.  Went around the island and stopped for swims at Porat and Baldarka bays.
    • Walk to lighthouse and Nasuzanski bay.
  • Mo. 13. Juli:  early ferry to Mali Losinj, meet up with Andreas & Frank.  Should've slept at Apt. Loreta again, but stayed at Accom. Branka because it seemed closer to harbor for our early ferry.
  • Di. 14. Juli:  6:00 ferry to Rijeka.  Christian got a sharp haircut across the street from the train station, we walked up the ancient Petar Kružić stairs, sipped some strong local bottled brews at Beertija, had a homebrewed beer on the terrace at Beer Factory, and were welcome to bring our own food from the neighboring bakery to Sabrage Bar before heading back downtown to the train, where we had left our heavy backpack in a locker.  Night train to Munich Ost.

Trogir

My first foray to the Croatian coast was in 2014 with some CEU friends and it was fantastic!  Neither Christian nor I were working at the time so money was extremely tight, but Croatia in June was a marvelous, easy-on-the-wallet option.

We took the an afternoon train from Prien to Zagreb, had dinner with Matea & Ivan, then on to Split with the night train.  We booked our train tickets a few weeks in advance and the total price per person for the entire journey from Prien to Split cost €35!  And that included our own spacious compartment on the night train - way bigger than the more modern and chic DB/ÖBB sardine cans.

Our address was Ane Put Svete 39, which is about 15 mins walk from the marina or the Trogir bus station.

Closest train station (Željeznička stanica = train station):  Kastel Stari, ~11km.  It probably would've been easier to take the train all the way to Split and then back track with a direct bus connection, but we roused Justin and his friends from their compartment and took a taxi to town from Kastel Stari.

From Split:  Bura Line ferry from Split to Trogir at 9:45, 13:00, 16:00 and 20:00 or bus leaves every 30 or 60 minutes.  The train station, bus station, and ferry port are all in the same central location on the harbor.  

Zagreb

Matea’s Croatia (2013)

Bars, Cafes, and Restaurants:

Mali Medo Beer Hall  A must for beer.   Try the homemade bagels:  čvarkuša and slana kiflica sa sirom. 

Address: Ulica Ivana Tkalčića 36, 10000, Zagreb, Croatia

 

For lunch I warmly recommend: Lari & Penati  

Address:  Petrinjska ulica 42A, Zagreb, Croatia

 

Restoran Kaptolska Try "zapečeni štrukli" cheese filled pastry, typical, very tasty.

Address: Kaptol ulica 5, 10000, Zagreb, Hrvatska

 

If you feel more fancy, the Regent Esplanade has very good "zapečeni štrukli" and it's not much more expensive.

Address:  Mihanovićeva ulica 1, 10000, Zagreb, Croatia

 

Amélie

A must must must, just next to the cathedral, have to try the amelie cake :)

Address: Vlaška 6, Zagreb 10000 Hrvatska

 

Lauba

Address:  Baruna Filipovića 23a, 10000 Zagreb, Croatia

 

Sights & Activities:

Museum of Broken Relationships

Address: Ćirilometodska 2, Gornji grad, Zagreb, Croatia

 

Botanical Garden

Address:  Botanicki vrt PMF-a, Uprava Marulicev trg 9a HR-10000 Zagreb

 

Maksimir Park

Huge park, has lakes, a zoo, nice to kill more than a couple of hours, its very big and a bit outside of center

 

Sportskiobjekti Park

We go to drive bikes here, roller blade, have barbecues  its also a bit away from the city center, but it's not too complicated to get there.. has quite a few cafes few clubs, we like this part of the town :)

 

Day Trips:

Plitvicka-jezera National Park

Zagrebtours.com

 

Accommodation:

Camera Felice

Address:  Trg Vladka Mačeka 2, 10000 Zagreb, Croatia

 

Music:

Dirty theatre

Youtube:  Ex-Yugoslavia rock